Stage Two: Chateau Thierry to Chalon-sur-Saone

And, just as I'd hoped, the weather improved enormously and the
scenery changed a bit too. Although the fields are still enormous, stretching all the way to the
horizon, there are also a few more wooded areas out of the wind. The crops have also changed a bit with leeks and
oil-seed rape replacing the monotonous sugar-beet.

And I now have bronzed arms and face and red knees from the sun, which is scorching hot when it does actually manage to break through.


I'm now in Troyes and what a lovely place it is. I had no idea about this city, but many of the building in the centre are medieval, oak-framed and gorgeous. It's gone straight into my top three places along with Amsterdam and Marrakech.

I arrived last night (Friday) in the rush our having

taken the wrong road out of Mery-s-Seine and found myself on the main highway going over the hills battling into the headwinds instead of ambling along the sheltered wooded backroad alongside the Seine. Never mind, at least the French have laid out excellent c

ycle paths into and around this beautiful city.

Following my nose (i.e. shambling around clueless) I found everything I needed within 50 metres of each other; a laundrette, an internet cafe and a lovely and very reasonable Lebanese restraunt - Le Lebanais!
It takes a week of rough camping to make you really appreciate a plateful of wonderful looking

food being put in front of you! And the very kind and helpful restraunteur reccomended the Harlequin Hotel where I stayed the night, and will again tonight.

I was so tired this morning that I could hardly walk to the shower, with knees and ankles definitely feeling the strain of the load and the headwinds, so I am declaring today a rest day as I'm about half way to the alps and need to preserve my strength for what is going to be a major challenge.

Tomorrow I'll be heading off to Mussy-s-Seine and points south-west thereof.

Since leaving the lovely Troyes I've been following the Seine valley through Cote D'Or, and jolly wonderful it's been too. The trees are just showing the first signs of starting to turn and it's a truly lush green valley. The first of the champagne vineyards have started to appear on the Southern slopes and there's more livestock around.

I passed the now locked-up house and derelict barn I stayed in on the last trip. So many of the old buildings here are empty and neglected. Stopped in at the

quint and well kept Mussy-sur-Seine, but felt as if I was regarded with suspicion. It has the

Museum of the Resistance here, which may have something to do with the deeply ingrained

nationalism that seems to be intrinsic to the culture in these parts.

After a long day yesterday, 5km more than in 1984, and a very rough and wet night I stopped in at the lovely Le Soleil d'Or (www.le-soleil-dor.eu) run by the delightful Andy and

Simon, escapees from the London to Brighton rat-race. The place is charming and full of Buddhist art and I've been thoroughly

enjoying jazz and conversation in English. And the weather

forecast for the next few days looks

great, so it's on to Dijon tomorrow :)

And Dijon proved to be delightful! Beautiful, relaxed, excellent cycle paths and friendly people.

Again great lengths have been gone to to preserve the old and sensitively integrate the new.

The countryside around has becomore interesting with more woodland and livestock, and there are clear signs of a healthier economy than the North.

From Dijon I followed the Bourgogne canal south to St. Jean de Losne where rich British retirees tell boating stories and soak themselves in sun and satisfaction (a little envy creeps in here).