Thursday 18 August 2011

Stage Five: Savona to Siena



After trying in vain to keep up with three young Italian lifeguards, Luca, Paulo and Ricardo, on a cycle tour to Sicily (Luca was born the year I made my first trip in 1984) I staggered into Siena for a rest and met up with one of my English students, Emanuela, who lives there.














Siena has a wonderfully warm atmosphere due to it's age, the handmade nature of all the architecture, the pedestrian-only centre and very human qualities of the Piazza del Campo where Italians of all ages demonstrate their lack of shyness when it comes to public displays of affection and sit on a tiny balcony perched in the North East corner to catch the last rays of the Sun.
























From there it was inland again to Pisa, a tourist jamboree, then south east to Volterra, a steep climb up to a fortified hilltop town where freezing headwinds made it tough going although, again, the views you earn are spectacular.










Along the flat cycle-path from Marina di Carrara to Viareggio was just gorgeous. There's nothing like standing in the sea looking back over the beach with a mountain backdrop.










Then on to the madness of La Spezia (it seems I have a very low tolerance for Italian cities) followed by the wealthy but crammed Lerici and Tellaro where never before had I seen so many electric-gated mansions crammed into such a small space. There is no public space and the campsites were closed, so it was stealth mode and sleeping in the open in the olive grove next to the cemetery for me!










The night this sunset was taken the full moon rose over the hills behind me which was ample compensation for the climb up and having to pitch on gravel in an old quarry!










Then, after some adventuresome tunnels it was back into the hills behind the coast for more stunning panoramic views from Mt. St. Agna.










With views like this, and cycle-paths right on the coast, you don't mind getting a little sea spray with your headwind!










The coast road is stunning with some lovely little resorts such as Camogli and Sestri Lavante where swimming and sunbathing came as a blessed relief from the steep climbs and buzzing mopeds.


And although some of the long pushes uphill were arduous in the heat, at least you get to stop and chat to some friendly bikers, such as Roberto and Giorgia out for a cruise on their Harleys.






Well, Genoa turned out to be intense, crazy, expensive and a little on the seedy side with 500 yr old alleyways lined with 50yr old prostitutes next to 4 star restaurants and stylish interior design shops punctuated with delapidated old churches - all mixed together in one big maze and then sliced through with steel over-passes.



So, here I am in Genoa messing around in front of computer when I should be enjoying the sun and the cycling! But frankly it too hot in the afternoons.






































































































































































































































































































































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